Photos By Gail
“Clothes that will stun the crowds in museum exhibitions in the future,” was how New York Times fashion critic Bernadine Morris summarized Yves Saint Laurent’s spring /summer 1988 haute couture collection. A highlight of the collection was the Irises jacket shown here, a simulacrum of Vincent van Gogh’s 1889 painting. The jacket echoes the original’s cropped composition, zooming in even further on the curved and twisting lines of the irises. More remarkably, the embroidery amplifies the luminosity of Van Gogh’s colors, and enhances the materiality of his thick, short, wavy brushstrokes. Continue reading Eye On Design: Van Gogh’s Irises On Bead Embroidered Jacket →
Photo By Gail
Nature and artifice coalesce in Connor Ives‘ Couture Girl Dress from the designer’s 2020 graduate collection, “The American Dream,” which was inspired by the women with whom he grew up in Bedford, New York. The garment’s bulblike shape parodies the pneumatic silhouettes of mid-20th-century fashion.
Continue reading Eye On Design: Conner Ives Couture Girl Dress →
Photo By Gail
Elsa Schiaparelli’s designs were characterized by their witty, Surrealist-inspired details. This black, wool marocain jacket features an embroidered mosaic of mirrored paillettes in the shape of two lamb chops. It dates from Schiaparelli’s Circus collection, presented in February 1938, just after the opening of the influential international Surrealism Exhibition in Paris. The jacket belonged to the American model and actress, Ruth Ford.
Photographed in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
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