“Clothes that will stun the crowds in museum exhibitions in the future,” was how New York Times fashion critic Bernadine Morris summarized Yves Saint Laurent’s spring /summer 1988 haute couture collection. A highlight of the collection was the Irises jacket shown here, a simulacrum of Vincent van Gogh’s 1889 painting. The jacket echoes the original’s cropped composition, zooming in even further on the curved and twisting lines of the irises. More remarkably, the embroidery amplifies the luminosity of Van Gogh’s colors, and enhances the materiality of his thick, short, wavy brushstrokes. Continue reading Eye On Design: Van Gogh’s Irises On Bead Embroidered Jacket→
If you’ve been keeping up with NYC retail buzz, then you know that Printemps — the iconic French luxury department store — has made its highly anticipated U.S. debut with a stunning new flagship in the heart of Wall Street. I had the chance to check out the space recently, and let me tell you: it’s as jaw-droppingly gorgeous as you’d expect. While wandering through its elegant, multi-level layout, I came upon this Fancy Pink Gown with Ostrich Feather Trim, and I swooned on the spot! Continue reading Pink Thing of The Day: Fancy Pink Gown with Ostrich Feather Trim→
The La Sirène or “Lobster” Evening Dress by Charles James, designed in 1956, is a masterful example of his sculptural approach to couture. This evening gown was part of James‘ later work, showcasing his deep understanding of structure, form, and fabric manipulation. The dress was named La Sirène (French for The Mermaid) because of its dramatic, fishtail silhouette, which flares at the bottom, echoing the movement of a mermaid’s tail. Continue reading Eye On Design: Charles James’ La Sirène Gown→
This Mermaid-like Bridal Ensemble was worn by New York socialite Natalie Potter for her wedding to financier William Conkling Ladd on December 4, 1930. Its dramatic, cathedral-length train features interlocking scallops that recall undulating ocean waves and the concentric circles of seashells. Continue reading Eye On Design: Mermaid Bridal Gown By Callot Soeurs→
Alexander McQueen once declared, “Birds in flight fascinate me.” One of his favorite films was Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 thriller The Birds, which inspired his spring/summer 1995 collection, including this jacket. Made from orange wool twill, it features a swarm of swallows screen printed by Simon Ungless and Andrew Groves. Individual birds gradually materialize from the ominous black cloud of swallows at the exaggerated shoulders, swooping around the body of the jacket and increasing in size but decreasing number towards the hem.
Photographed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art as Part of the Exhibit Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.
