In Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 1996 Cyberbaba collection, the designer fused high-tech futurism with earthy sensuality, creating garments that blurred the boundaries between skin, surface, and identity. Among its most striking looks is a classic woman’s tailored suit — crisp jacket and pants — that, on closer inspection, reveals a printed illusion: the muscular torso of a man, rendered in red, mapped directly onto the fabric. Known as the Cyber Muscle Suit, was recently spotted as part of Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis at the Museum at FIT, where it stands as a provocative study in how fashion visualizes the unconscious. Continue reading Eye On Design: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Cyber Muscle Suit
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Eye On Design: Dolce & Gabbana Pasta Print Silk Dress
This Dolce & Gabbana silk dress from Spring 2017 celebrates pasta as an internationally recognized symbol of Italian identity. Food motives have been part of Dolce & Gabbana’s design since the 1990s. Most recently, the pair have made use of produce, gelato, and cannoli prints, reinforcing the connection between Italian food and fashion as parts of La Dolce Vita.
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Eye On Design: Candy-Striped Dress By Norman Norell for Hattie Carnegie
After working as a costume designer in theater and film during the early 1920s, Norman Norell (1900– 1972) seamlessly transitioned into clothing design as a designer for a wholesale manufacturer, but his career took a quantum leap in 1928 when he went to work for Hattie Carnegie, owner of one of the leading fashion houses in New York, and an elite purveyor of licensed copies of Parisian haute couture.
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Eye On Design: Brasserie Gabrielle Waiter-Inspired Ensemble By Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel’s fall 2015 collection, Brasserie Gabrielle, was shown in a detailed set referencing a French bistro, celebrating the simple leisure of mealtimes through well-dressed patrons, but also impeccably dressed waiters.
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Eye On Design: Marie-Thérèse Houphouët-Boigny Print Ensemble By Djainin
Designers Jean-Yves Kouassi Yebieyin and Gaston Ouedraogo capture the unique history and culture of West African country Ivory Coast, also known as Côte d’Ivoire, with their brand partnership Djainin. The brand name translates to “Jeans” in Nouchi, a language that developed to bridge language differences in Ivorian cities.
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