Tag Archives: Suit

Eye On Design: Vivienne Westwood, Tartan Jacket and Skirt

tartan jacket and skirt photo by gail worley
Photos By Gail

The expression “Storm in a Teacup” refers to a great fuss that is made over a trivial matter. In Vivienne Westwood’s interpretation, it referenced the “windblown” asymmetry of her designs, as well as her ample use of British tailoring and tweeds. The restrained runway presentation of this multi-color tartan wool jacket and back silk velvet skirt from her 1996 collection of that name allowed viewers to concentrate on the inventiveness of the clothing.

tartan jacket photo by gail worley

Photographed in the Museum at FIT in New York City.

Eye On Design: Gingham Ensemble By Claudia Li

gingham ensemble by claudia li photo by gail worley
All Photos By Gail

Designer Claudia Li’s autumn/winter 2020 collection, entitled 3.16.19, is a tribute to her grandfather, who passed away in 2019. The designs in the collection reflect Li’s memories of him, the imprint of their experiences together in China, and the creative ability passed through generations.

Continue reading Eye On Design: Gingham Ensemble By Claudia Li

Eye On Design: Pink Floyd Lightbulb Suit By Storm Thorgerson

pink floyd lightbulb suits photo by gail worley
All Photos By Gail

One of many highlights from my fun-filled holiday trip to California was a visit to Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains; an immersive exhibit covering the complete history of the legendary progressive rock band that even a casual Pink Floyd fan will flip out over. Given my extreme fondness for costume design, you can only imagine my delight in finding that one of the galleries included replicas of the enigmatic Lightbulb Suits seen on the cover and related artwork for the band’s 1988 live album, Delicate Sound of Thunder. Talk about an “Oh, Wow” moment. Continue reading Eye On Design: Pink Floyd Lightbulb Suit By Storm Thorgerson

Eye On Design: Breakfast Suit By Christian Francis Roth

Breakfast Suit By Christian Francis Roth Photo By Gail Worley
All Photos By Gail

Following the lineage of witty designs by creators that include Elsa Schiaparelli and Franco Moschino, this playful Breakfast Suit (Spring / Summer 1990) by Christian Francis Roth employs the Surrealist strategy of displacing everyday objects from their normal environment.

Continue reading Eye On Design: Breakfast Suit By Christian Francis Roth

Eye On Design: Wolf Kahan Tuxedo Owned By Adolf De Meyer

Adolph De Meyer Tuxedo
Photos By Gail

A member of the “international set” in fin-de-siècle Europe, Baron Adolf de Meyer (1868–1946) was also a pioneering photographer, known for creating works that transformed reality into a beautiful fantasy. De Meyer likely acquired this tuxedo from the venerable tailor Wolf Kahan during a visit to Vienna. Kahan’s shop, designed by the modernist architect Adolf Loos, catered to the city’s leading artists. The tailor’s son Louis worked from 1925 to 1927 as a designer for the Paris couturier Paul Poiret, whose collections De Meyer photographed.

De Meyer was considered an arbiter of style; he wrote columns for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar that instructed American women on the latest European trends in fashion and interior decoration. His columns  also offered tips on hostess etiquette and entertaining. For a time, De Meyer produced his own couture line, Gayne House, sold through his New York shop, Zarah.

Adolph De Meyer Tuxedo
Wolf Kahan Tuxedo Circa 1930. Jacket and Trousers: Black Wool Broadcloth and Silk Satin
Vest: Black Wool Twill, Rayon Grosgrain, and Silk Plain Weave

Photographed as Part of the Exhibit, Quicksilver Brilliance: Adolf De Meyer Photographs, on View Through April 8th, 2018 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC.